Friday, August 3, 2012

Chinatown Remembered

Many large cities proudly showcase their Chinatown, an exotic place where you can enjoy the Chinese culture without having to travel too far. Manhattan used to have a great Chinatown...but it no longer exists there. But--you may say--there still is a Chinatown in Manhattan, you recently visited the place...No, what you saw is the remains of what once was a thriving and engaging place, which has now been reduced to "tourist trap" status.

When we were growing up ---Manhattan's Chinatown was a fun place to visit. We kids would take the subway to Canal Street, and as you went up the stairs, the aromas and the noise would hit you. There were all these authentic dim sum places, where you felt like you were back in China. There were the many tea-houses. But the one we liked the best were the places that had many traditional Chinese children's games, we would spend hours, alongside the Chinese kids playing all these low-tech games.

There were the stores selling you genuine, hand-made knick-knacks. And as you walked down the street you could see and really smell the fresh fish, duck, chicken or whatever was hanging outside the store. I remember also a fortune-telling place where they used a chicken to tell your fortune. Honestly, when you walked Canal, Mott and the other streets around there, you actually felt as if you had been transported.  I loved the little pagoda on top of the phone booths.

Today, there are few phone booths, what little is left--- is often nothing more than decoration. The products are no linger unique, hand-carved items made of wood or jade or stones, No, they are cheap machine-made junk, the food is overpriced and flavor-wise  are geared towards the non-Chinese, meaning you lose the authentic cuisine--in favor of general blandness.

No, when I want to experience the real Chinatown, I head to Flushing in Queens, and rejoice in the rebirth of Chinatown there. Flushing was going down the drain, until many Chinese arrived from Hong Kong, when ownership reverted back to mainland China. This was like a blessing to Flushing--a Renaissance. Now you have five-stars hotels, and world-class restaurants. In short, what the Manhattan Chinatown used to be. So if you visit here--you have been warned---if you want a tourist trap Chinatown, stay in Manhattan-- but if you want the real deal-- take the number 7 train to Flushing.